The 2020 Vintage en Primeur is Already Very Promising!

THE MAJOR TRENDS OF THE LAST VINTAGE

The en primeur tasting week of Bordeaux wines took place at the end of April 2021. Professionals and critics from all over the world were able to assess the quality of the 2020 vintage, before it was marketed in May. The quality is there, despite the challenges of the past year which were not only climatic. The vintage looks remarkable for most of the owners of the Bordeaux vineyards, with unfortunately relatively low yields for some appellations. The quality of the grape varieties, the slow ripening of the grapes due to the exceptional terroirs and the work of the vineyard: this is a vintage that bodes well for the velvetiness of the red wines and the fruitiness of the white wines, in the freshness that is emblematic of the great wines of Bordeaux. A success for the châteaux, which brilliantly offer the generosity of this vintage full of contrasts. The bottlings are obviously not done yet, as the maturing of the primeurs is still in progress, but during the tasting, the experts were unanimous: this 2020 vintage promises to be a very long-lived one!

A YEAR FULL OF CHALLENGES FOR THE WINEGROWERS

The game of spot the similarities and differences between the new en primeur vintage and previous years is an unavoidable exercise. Let's reflect a little on the context of this remarkable vintage.

A disrupted setting:

With masked and gloved harvests, on the production side it was necessary to comply with the constraints dictated by the pandemic. Repeated lockdowns meaning a lack of anticipation in order to accomplish tasks in time, resulted in the winegrower's calendar being a real headache, under pressure too as the work in the vineyard can't wait: it is dictated by the rhythm of each season. Of course, the year 2020 was more chaotic than the previous ones, if we consider the context of the pandemic and the upheaval of production, but the necessary care for the vine and the quality of the grapes was carried out smoothly! On the trade side, the crisis has benefited the wine trade even with the closure of bars and it is reassuring to note that the people have not given up on the art of living. Wine remains a product that interests wine lovers in the short and long term, despite the new constraints. This gives us hope that this year again there will be a strong attraction for Bordeaux en primeur wines.

Climate fluctuations:

Climate change is increasingly being factored in the managing and the resulting quality of the grapes. The weather of 2020 was uneven: a mild winter, a dull spring and a dry summer with scorching temperatures until September. On the whole, the vines managed to escape the main hazards that threaten them, starting with the ravages of spring mildew. During the summer season, the vines suffered in places from the sun's heat, but the heat was able to concentrate the grapes, offering higher degrees of alcohol and a nice sweetness for the sweet and luscious wines which benefited from a slow maturation. Real challenges, but not without reward!

Influential soils vs Water problems:

The geological particularities of the Bordeaux vineyard are due to its capacity to regulate the water supply of the vine at the different stages, until maturation. The good natural regulation of water in the soil was an asset during the scorching summer of 2020. This is a common feature of the best vintages, where the vines have benefited from a regular water supply despite the extreme weather conditions. On the clay-limestone soils renowned for the expression of Merlot, as well as on the clay-gravel soils of the Sauternes, Graves and Médoc regions renowned for Cabernet Sauvignon, but also Semillon and Muscadelle, the clay played an essential role during the drought: the clay soils were able to conserve the water necessary to withstand the summer heat, just enough to keep up the reserves. Indeed, on the surface, the clay swells very quickly and prevents the rain from continuing to saturate the soil, letting it run off and evacuate. When the heat returns, the clays return to their original shape, slowly releasing water and minerals from the rocks. On the right bank of the Dordogne, where it is the red wines that benefit most from the alkaline soils of the sedimentary limestone rocks (giving them colour, body, power and suppleness), the wines tasted en primeur confirmed the freshness of the future Grands Crus of Saint-Emilion. The Fronsac and Côtes de Castillon vintages gave a beautiful expression of the vintage in a sappy and dynamic profile. On the left bank, the grapes from planted vines suffered more water stress, but just enough to bring the grapes slowly to maturity. More acidic, these gravelly soils allow the grapes to compensate for the sweetness due to the power of the stones to reflect the sun's rays and retain heat at night. The stony debris ensures good drainage of the soil, and fortunately so. This notion of slow ripening is what makes Bordeaux wines great: just before the water shortage, the water stress of 2020 allowed limited growth of the vines planted on these soils poor in organic matter, forcing the vines to draw on their nutrients. It devotes most of its energy to producing a few bunches of very high quality grapes. A guarantee of finesse!

An ultimately successful harvest:

Harvested in good conditions, the Merlots of the right bank will give excellent wines. The Pomerols will go a long way in the cellar! As for the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot of the left bank, they are admirable, which is rather rare. The en primeur wines from the prestigious appellations of Médoc, Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint- Julien, Haut Médoc, Listrac, Moulis and Margaux promise to be balanced and fresh. The latter are already surprisingly good even though the maturing process is not yet complete. The Margaux en primeur wines show great ageing potential: presenting a good deal on the First Growth without taking too many risks before delivery. The Saint-Estèphe wines flourished despite the heat, the appellation is one of those which behave well in arid vintages. For white wines, we can expect expressive Sauternes, Barsac and Bordeaux AOCs, wines that reflect the ripeness and fullness of this sunny year. However, for some of these appellations, it is regrettable that yields were low in this vintage, which may explain a rise in prices.

BORDEAUX WINES EN PRIMEUR 2020, A GOOD INVESTMENT

In Bordeaux, we tend to think that all vintages are remarkable, and while usually a fallacy we have to admit that for the past few years, this has been the case. The 2020 vintage is already part of an amazing trio of 2018, 2019 and 2020. The primeurs we tasted have body and balance, with fresh flavours and a bright finish. The tannic structure is already apparent according to the experts, whose notes augur well for long-keeping wines for the best classified growths. A very successful vintage that combines delicacy and power. It must be said that some great properties continue to progress, such as Château Talbot. If you are lucky enough to reserve Grands Crus, this is a vintage that can be widely cellared because not only will these classified growths offer pleasure in their youth, but they will go a long way in time.