Volnay or Pommard: which one to choose?

The Volnay AOC covers approximately 220 hectares, including 114 hectares classified as Premier Cru. Perched on the heights of the Côte de Beaune, its vineyards enjoy a south-eastern exposure that optimises the amount of sunshine they receive. It lies on steep slopes, backed by the small Chaignot mountain, forming a slight bend that reinforces its unique microclimate. This terroir has been cultivated for centuries. The Knights of Malta, the abbeys of Saint-Andoche d'Autun and Maizières, as well as the ducal and royal estates, all contributed to the development of this vineyard long before the Revolution. By the 18th century, Volnay wine had established itself as an essential reference point for Burgundy wines.

The appellation was recognised in 1937 and also includes Volnay-Santenots, a wine produced on neighbouring land in Meursault.

The soil of the Volnay vineyard has a geological diversity that directly influences the character of the wines. Thus, on the higher ground of the vineyard, there is oolitic limestone soil, reminiscent of the composition of Morvan porphyry, with a pink hue and greenish inclusions. Further down the slope, light, chalky white Argovian limestone takes over, providing ideal drainage for the vines. Lower still, the Bathonian limestone is enriched with iron, giving it a reddish colour, and is mixed with gravel. Finally, in the plain, the soil is deeper and gravelly, giving the wines more roundness and suppleness.

The entire vineyard is located at an altitude of between 230 and 280 metres and enjoys a temperate climate, which guarantees optimal ripening of Pinot Noir, the only grape variety authorised in the Volnay AOC specifications.

Unlike Pommard wines, Volnay wines are often described as ‘feminine’ due to their silky tannins and balance between finesse and aromatic intensity. Volnay wines reveal aromas of red fruit, violet, and sometimes spicy and woody notes. On the palate, they offer a supple structure, well-integrated acidity and an elegant finish.

Wines from the Volnay appellation can be enjoyed 3 to 5 years after bottling, but they gain complexity after 10 to 15 years of ageing. The best vintages and Volnay Premiers Crus can be kept for 20 years or more.

Thanks to their delicacy, Volnay red wines pair perfectly with white meats such as roast poultry (duck, guinea fowl, capon) or veal. With age, their oaky notes make them a wonderful accompaniment to mushroom risotto. Finally, they are the perfect accompaniment to soft cheeses such as Brie de Meaux or Reblochon.

Pommard red wines are ideal accompaniments to game (venison, hare, wild duck) as well as grilled or braised red meats. Their richness also makes them ideal candidates for dishes served with sauce, such as the classic beef bourguignon. With cheese, it pairs particularly well with Époisses, Langres and Livarot.

Although Volnay and Pommard share the same exceptional terroir and a grape variety composition centred on Pinot Noir, they express two very distinct facets of this emblematic Burgundy grape variety.

The elegance of Volnay makes it a delicate wine, ideal for those looking for a silky red, marked by freshness and finesse. Pommard, on the other hand, is more structured and powerful, with more pronounced tannins, offering a denser palate and greater ageing potential.

One plays on delicacy and suppleness, while the other asserts a more earthy and structured character. Two great wines with distinct styles that appeal to different sensibilities and occasions.

The choice between Volnay and Pommard is therefore a matter of taste as much as the context in which it is drunk. Lovers of fine, elegant red wines will naturally gravitate towards Volnay, which is ideally paired with white meat. Pommard, on the other hand, is for those who prefer more structured wines and appreciate racy reds. They will enjoy it with game in sauce or with beef bourguignon. In short, where Volnay brings out the finesse of delicate dishes, Pommard easily matches the robustness of powerful meats and more assertive textures.

But the choice is not limited to the pairings. The patience of the future owner of such a bottle must also be taken into account. If you are looking for a wine to drink in its early years, Volnay is the most appropriate appellation as it offers a fairly quick accessible expression. Pommard, on the other hand, requires time. Its tight tannins soften with age, and it is after ten years or so that it reveals its full greatness.

In both cases, these are wines that are generally reserved for special occasions.

The prestige of Burgundy wines, combined with the rarity of their terroirs, naturally drives up prices, particularly for wines from Climats classified as Premier Cru. The Volnay and Pommard AOCs are no exception to this rule, and wine lovers will need to budget accordingly, depending on the producer, the vintage and the hierarchy of the vineyard's wines.

Thus, while a Volnay Village generally costs between £30 and £50 per bottle, Volnay Premiers Crus produced in the finest Climats (Le Clos des Chênes, Les Caillerets and Les Champans, to name but a few) can fetch between £70 and £150, or even more for the most sought-after vintages.

Pommard, meanwhile, often commands slightly higher prices than Volnay. A Pommard Village is difficult to find for less than £40, while a Pommard Premier Cru can easily fetch between £150 and £200, especially in the most sought-after vintages. At Vinatis, you will find a wide selection of Volnay and Pommard wines at the best prices.