Switzerland is not only about watches, Swiss knives, Milka® cows, gold or chocolate bars... Forget the clichés, in this Alpine country, some serious wine is also produced!
Switzerland, an important player in the wine market
Although not well known for its wines and despite its small size, Switzerland has an important place in the wine market.
First of all, wine consumption is high, with the inhabitants of this old wine-growing nation being among the largest consumers of wine in the world. With 85 million litres of wine per year in 2015 according to FOAG (Federal Office for Agriculture), the national production does not cover demand and the country relies on imports.
In fact, while the Swiss are among the leading importers of wine, they also consume almost all of their own production. Swiss wine is therefore rarely exported and instead consumed locally. This makes Switzerland both important wine consumer and wine producer.
Sierre, the capital of Swiss wines
Switzerland is increasingly making a name for itself with outstanding wines. The IVVS (Interprofession de la vigne et du vin suisse) has defined 6 major wine regions. In order of importance, Valais (33%), Vaud (26%), German-speaking Switzerland (18%), Geneva (9%), Ticino (7%) and Three Lakes (6%).
In this Alpine landscape, a small community in the canton of Valais claims to be the capital of Swiss wine. This community is the town of Sierre. And with good reason, as it is already home to the Vine and Wine Museum, it also hosts one of the first wine tasting exhibitions created in the Confederation: the Vinea Exhibition. For almost 25 years, Vinea has been offering a real wine experience, tasting Swiss wines and challenging producers from all over the world with the international competitions entirely dedicated to wines from Merlot and Pinot grape varieties.
Lavaux, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Partly bordered by Lake Geneva and dominated by the Alps, Lavaux is the jewel of the Swiss Riviera.
Famous for its terraced vineyards, this site in the canton of Vaud has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 28 June 2007. The Lavaux AOC is the most famous and prestigious of the eight existing Vaud appellations (Chablais, Lavaux, Dézaley Grand Cru, Calamin Grand Cru, La Côte, Côtes-de-l'Orbe, Bonvillars and Vully).
On the vertiginous slopes overlooking the lake, which the winegrowers have gradually learned to tame, Fendant Roux (Chasselas) is the king of grapes! With more than 10,000 plots of vines bordered by 400 kilometres of walls, an enormous task carried out in the Middle Ages by the Cistercian monks, this landscape is breathtaking!
The adventure began in the 11th century, after the arrival of a new bishop in Lausanne. He had the intuition that the sunny slopes would be perfetly suited for wine growing. Little by little, over the course of three centuries, the clearing of land and the development of terraces supported by low stone walls gave rise to the landscape that we know today. A landscape shaped by man and which has known only one use through the ages: the cultivation of vines.
For some time now, wine tourism has been gaining in popularity among the producers. Bed and breakfast at the winegrowers', walks or bike rides in the vineyards, these steep slopes attract tourists, from novice to connoisseur, who can literally quench their thirst for curiosity with a tasting of Fendant Roux.
The site was ranked as a place to visit by the New York Times in 2016 among more than fifty destinations. It was ranked 25th ahead of Washington (26th), Barcelona (29th) and Sydney (51st).
Imagine yourself enjoying a fresh Fendant white wine by the Lake Geneva with a panoramic view of the mountains. What could be more perfect!
The three suns phenomenon
The country is small, yet the 6 regions differ in their grape varieties, topography, climate and soil. In this green landscape marked by the mountains, most of the vineyards are located on south-facing slopes, along rivers or on the lakefront. The warm southern wind, the föhn, allows the grapes to reach a good maturity, even on high altitude sites where the snow might fall before winter.
A very specific climate which, combined with the typology of the land, results in exceptional conditions for the sun exposure.
In the famous vineyards of Lavaux, a rare luminous phenomenon occurs on the terraces overlooking Lake Geneva. This is the phenomenon of the three suns that form a micro-climate: the first is the direct light of the sun itself; the second comes from the reflection of the sun on the stone walls that delimit the terraced slopes; the third is the solar radiation reflected by the lake. The triple sunlight make the Valais a vineyard in a league of its own.
High prices that are justified
Even though the Swiss winegrowers can enjoy the sunny weather conditions, the same cannot be said of the work on the steep slopes. For example, the slopes of Lavaux go down to the Lake Geneva at inclinations ranging from 13 to 43%. The largest wine production comes from the Valais, where the vines stretch along the Rhône River on well-exposed slopes between 450 and 800 metres above sea level. In Visperterminen, the vines of Heida (the local name for Savagnin) reach a height of 1150 metres, making it the highest vineyard in Europe. The slopes are difficult and expensive to cultivate, which results in high average prices for the Swiss wines.
The reduced access to motorised vehicles has favoured other cultivation techniques: construction of small sheds in the vineyard for the storage of equipment, pressing of the grapes on the spot before being transferred to the valley via a pipeline, ski-lifts... these remedies do not, however, dispense with the hand harvesting of the grapes.
Steep slopes and terraced vineyards make vine growing difficult and partly explain the high price of Swiss wine, but there is also another factor in play.
As mentioned above, wine production does not cover demand and almost all Swiss wine is consumed by Swiss people. Only 1% of Swiss wine is exported, which justifies the high prices for a wine that is becoming scarce. According to figures from the FOAG (Federal Office for Agriculture), Swiss viticulture meets only one third of the needs of the Swiss market.
A small production, which, combined with the difficult cultivation of the vine, makes it possible to better consider the cost of a bottle. Swiss wines are expensive, but of a very high quality!
A special regulation
In Switzerland, there are several appellations of origin (AOC). However, they are struggling to become homogenised. In fact, in keeping with the spirit of decentralisation that reigns in Switzerland, wine legislation is the responsibility of each canton. This has given rise to a multitude of appellations that are very confusing for the consumer. In the canton of Neuchâtel alone (600 hectares), for example, there are no fewer than 19 appellations! Some winegrowers have even preferred to create their own appellation and sell their production as table wine. As you can see, the regulations vary from one canton to another.
You will find the grape variety on each wine label. And yes, it is the grape variety that is emphasized, followed by the name of the canton or village where it comes from.
Traditional and atypical grape varieties
Among the grape varieties cultivated, traditional and more atypical indigenous varieties can be found.
According to OFAG figures, there are almost 240 grape varieties on 14,793 hectares, of which almost 42% are planted with white grapes and 58% with black grapes.
The most cultivated being Pinot Noir (28%), Chasselas (26%), Gamay (9%) and Merlot (8%), they represent 71% of the total crop.
Indigenous grape varieties represent 36% of the crops and contribute to the identity and richness of Swiss vineyards. They are most often blended. The less common ones around the world are rare and atypical varieties such as Gamaret, Dornfelder and Garanoir.
Indigenous grape varieties: Petite Arvine, Chasselas, Gamaret, Garanoir, Dornfelder, Viognier, Amigne, Doral, Humagne Blanche, Humagne Rouge, Charmont, Rhine Riesling, Rèze, Cornalin ou Diolinoir.
Each year, the new wines are presented at the Swiss wine fair Vinea, which awards the Swiss Wine Grand Prix. Anchored in tradition, the Marche des Cépages is also an event that allows the public to walk the wine trails to discover these indigenous grape varieties.
In addition to the surprisingly robust red wines made from these indigenous grape varieties, there are also noble and fine wines such as Merlot and Pinot Noir. Traditional grape varieties that allow Swiss producers to demonstrate the quality of their terroir and their know-how at major international competitions.
The main black grape varieties: Pinot Noir, Gamay, Syrah, Merlot
Syrah, Humagne and Cornalin produce powerful and complex red wines, especially when aged in barrels. Wines made from Gamay and Pinot Noir, on the other hand, produce softer, lighter wines.
The main white grape varieties: Chasselas (Fendant Roux), Chardonnay, Sylvaner, Riesling, Muscat, Roussanne, Marsanne
Fendant produces lively and fruity wines and the Petite Arvine more incisive and nervous wines but with great finesse. Marsanne gives powerful and unctuous wines.
Now you know more about Swiss wines and its hidden treasures. But the best way to confirm that there are great wines in Switzerland, is to taste!
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