Natural Wine (Without Sulphites Added)

VITICULTURE

⇒ Beyond organic and biodynamic farming: The methods used to make natural wine are similar to biodynamic (and therefore organic!) methods. But with natural wine, natural goes further than the strict respect of the Earth or of a healthy grape: there is the respect of the wine in its elaboration. A natural wine is therefore automatically organic (even without a label), but not necessarily the other way round!

⇒ No mechanisation: Organic Agriculture does not prohibit mechanised harvesting. Natural wine producers consider that mechanised harvesting does not respect either the vine (easily damaged) or the soil (compacted). They use other gentle techniques that respect the environment: manual harvesting, grazing sheep or ewes, rolling with a draught horse to weed.

⇒ Choice of a non-interventionist logic: As with organic and biodynamic farming, all pesticides, herbicides, insecticides and other chemicals are banned. There is a desire for sustainable agricultural practice and to protect the health of the grower and the people around them. Some 'natural' winegrowers go further and refuse the use of heavy metals, notably copper, which is permitted in organic farming. The vines are not treated with synthetic products, or even are not treated at all.

VINIFICATION

⇒ Limiting or even eliminating inputs: Organic or biodymic wine does not ban sulphites. Correctors of acidity, sugar, enzymes, wood chips...the legislation authorises nearly 70 additives in classic wine and 35 for organic vintages, which is already too many for the 'natural' winegrowers. There is a desire on the part of the winegrower to limit inputs, or even to eliminate them, especially the controversial sulphur. The non-interventionist logic is therefore extended to the cellars: grapes are put in the vat and that's it, just as it was done 8,000 years ago: fermentation by indigenous yeasts naturally present in the grapes, no fining, no filtration.

⇒ Choosing to return to ancestral techniques: For some winegrowers, the production of natural wine is part of the heritage of an age-old know-how and the crushing stage is done by foot (breaking the berries to extract the must). This gesture is hardly conceivable for large yields, even organic. Far from the standardised or made-up tastes marketed by the wine industry to please a maximum number of consumers, natural wine is content to be produced in small quantities.

on the bottle

⇒ No AB (organic) or Demeter (Biodynamic) logo: Unlike Organic Agriculture and Biodynamics, natural wine is not governed by any legislation. There is no certification. These logos exist to give the consumer an indication of how the wine was produced (viticulture and vinification). If the 'natural' winegrowers are organic, they do not ask for AB certification (granted after three years) because they do not recognize themselves in this logo (which has a cost!). So they don't want to indicate it. So trust the wine merchant!

in the glass

⇒ More health-friendly by limiting additives: The fewer the inputs, the lower the risk of allergy or toxicity, as these are not always risk-free. If some people are intolerant to sulphites, for example, these remain harmful to health. However, there is no such thing as a wine without sulphites, they are naturally present in wine.

⇒ As close as possible to the identity of the terroir and the grape varieties: Some 'natural' winegrowers also disregard any appellation or denomination deemed too rigid. This is why many natural wines are classified as "Vin de France" or "Vin de Pays" on the label: an opportunity for winegrowers to revive certain dormant terroirs or old neglected grape varieties.

In substance:

If the method of viticulture of natural wine is largely inspired by biodynamics (therefore necessarily organic), the organic approach goes further, particularly during the vinification.

Everything is done in the vineyard as well as in the cellar to obtain a wine as natural as possible, even if this is not mentioned on the bottle.

It means respecting the environment, health and the wine. The true taste of wine, without artifice!

So, due to the quality of the vintages, why say that it is a 'natural wine'? It would be enough to say that it is a good wine!

'Living' wine, 'pure' wine, 'naked' wine, non-interventionist wine, traditional wine, whatever the intention, making a natural wine aims at the most original expression of a terroir, of a variety.

It means adopting a philosophy and recognising that it is possible to do things differently: to propose an alternative model to the established one and to commit to a return to the Earth, to the logic of things.

Some claim it is a kind of dissident act in the world of wine, a way of producing on the fringes of the wine industry, of the straitjacket of certifications and appellations considered too rigid. It's a far cry from the conventional and technological wine, too intellectualised and served with white gloves. This is an opportunity for some to create subversive labels, both in the names of the vintages and graphically on the label.

However, all the supporters of natural wine do not see it as a militant act, it is above all a question of being demanding with the wine, of taming it.

Making natural wine requires more mastery than making conventional wine. Very often, one must first master the science and to be able to do without it. Daily observation, knowledge of geobiology, micro-biology to control fermentation, permanent adaptation, meticulous work, patience... A winegrower who produces natural wine certainly has more merit than a conventional winegrower.

"Defects, under the pretext that it is natural, are not allowed," confides Benoît Braujou, the unyielding 'natural' winemaker we met in Languedoc.

The quality of natural wines places sharing and simplicity at the heart of tastings. In any case, natural wine is a wine for friends, one that clicks, surprises and loosens tongues without complexes!

⇒ Natural wine contains fewer sulphites: it is not made for ageing. Most can be drunk within three to five years. Do not wait!

⇒ It is advisable to decant natural wines to aerate them. As they are not fixed by inputs, they will need more time to express themselves. Don't hesitate to leave the wine in a decanter for one or two hours to get the most out of it!

⇒ Crystals at the bottom of the glass, cloudy colour, if the wine is not clear, it is not a problem! Very often, the 'natural' winemaker does not need to clarify the wine (fining and filtration), which requires inputs.

⇒ The best way to appreciate them is to start by deconstructing what you think you know about wine.

A little bit endearing, we met Benoît Braujou at the Fons Sanatis estate. He shares with us his personal vision of natural wine:

What is your definition of natural wine? 

Benoît Braujou: For me, a natural wine is first and foremost made in harmony with the environment, the terroir, the vegetation, the life of the soil... To create a natural wine, the winegrower must have the spirit of a farmer in their vines by treating them with respect and humility. They must try to understand the environment and be present just to help the vines to give their best.

It should not be a farmer who 'exploits their property'. We must not forget that we are simply tenants of this land (Gaia).

In the cellar, the winegrower must become an artist in order to give free rein to their desires, their emotions and their know-how.

For my part, I was lucky enough to have a 'natural heritage' thanks to my father and grandfather, who showed me the way to a logical way of working and thus enabled me to obtain vin vivants ('lively wines').

You don't call yourself a 'biodynamist' but a 'biodynamic'.

What exactly are the nuances?

Benoît Braujou: I am biodynamic because I do not use any method.

I don't follow the ready-made recipes that you can read in books.

I am learning to tune into nature so that I can have the privilege of obtaining healthy, clean grapes.

(...) For me, switching from tractor to horse is the best way to be as close as possible to the soil and to the vines, and it strengthens the close link I have with my vines even more. This practice will put an end to soil compaction, to violent and inappropriate ploughing and will avoid injuring my vines with interceps. It will reduce water consumption during treatments, which will be carried out on the back of a man (80 litres per hectare and per treatment instead of 200 at present). This will also greatly optimise the farm's carbon footprint. No smell of diesel, noise of cicadas... And that's (...) why I started training in animal traction.

Away from any label/certification or appellation: in a word, freedom!

Does this refusal of labels make you a dissident in the wine world? What do you think?

Benoît Braujou: Being away from all labels and appellations does not make me a dissident, on the contrary it allows me a lot of freedom in my vineyards and my cellar.

I enjoy talking to other winegrowers (organic or conventional) because I think that if we have to act for a cleaner culture, above all we must not quarrel with our neighbours. Just make them understand that we can do things differently.

I demand a wine that has a soul and that is not like the others.

That is to say that in each of my wines is found a part of myself, my feelings and of course the terroir and the fruits. In two words: My Signature!!!

How do you define the style of your wines?

Benoît Braujou: My wines are like me. They are gourmet, solid and honest.

I am quite demanding on the behaviour of my wines.

Defects under the pretext that they are natural are not allowed.

Since the beginning, I have been looking for purity in my wines while keeping power and finesse.

Crédits photo Fons Sanatis ©Culturevin