Romanée Conti is more than an estate or a Grand Cru, it is a masterpiece headed by Aubert de Villaine. In this article we will focus on the most famous cru in the world.
Climats are important in Burgundy and characterise the entire vineyard. Although the word 'climat' is reminiscent of the word 'climatology', which refers, among other things, to the weather, the term 'Climat' in Burgundy actually refers to 'Klimat', in Greek. The word 'Klimat' in Greek has a completely different meaning. It means 'inclination' or 'slope', which is what gives Burgundy's parcels their meaning. A climat is a well-defined plot of land and vines. In Burgundy, there are 1452 climats and not all of them correspond to an AOC. Partitioned by low stone walls, their surface areas are very small. Moreover, Mr Aubert de Villaine reminds us in his interviews that it is more common in Burgundy to speak of ouvrée, and not hectare. A ouvrée is a unit of measurement corresponding to a vineyard surface and its use is typically Burgundian! It is exactly equivalent to 4.28 ares, or 428 m². Historically, a ouvrée is an area that can be worked by one person in one day.
A true ambassador for the Climats of Burgundy, Aubert de Villaine was behind the inclusion of the Burgundian Climats in UNESCO's list of intangible cultural heritage. Since then, Burgundy, through associations such as the Burgundy Saint-Vincent Association and the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, has been organising events and exhibitions to better understand and appreciate the Climats in Burgundy. For Aubert de Villaine, wine is a real heritage that has allowed the region and its inhabitants to develop.
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Viticulture has been practiced at Romanée Conti for a very long time. It was the monks who initiated the cultivation of the vines as early as the 12th century and who protected the flagship grape variety of the vineyard, Pinot Noir. At the end of the 19th century, a small aphid called phylloxera destroyed the European vineyards. The winegrowers of the continent were forced to uproot the vines from their plots. Romanée Conti succeeded in sparing its vines. As the Burgundians had too much respect for the Romanée Conti climat, it was decided to treat the vines with a carbon-based solution, which was effective against the aphid, although difficult to find and expensive.
With the Second World War in full swing, it became difficult, if not impossible, to obtain the miracle solution. 1945 was therefore the last vintage of Romanée Conti before five years of rest. It was one of the most authentic vintages, since the grapes came from original European vines that had resisted phylloxera. Production resumed in 1952.
In 2018, a bottle of Romanée Conti from the 1945 vintage achieved a record sale price. This bottle, from an absolutely exceptional year from both a climatological and historical point of view, was bought for €482,000, or $558,000 in American currency. The estate produced only 600 bottles of this Grand Cru in 1945.
As bottles of Romanée Conti are highly prized internationally, they are unfortunately victims of fraud. Aubert de Villaine has already had to deal with a major case of fraud involving the vintages of his estate. Indeed, a few years ago, a Romanée Conti vintage 1947 was put on sale in the United States. However, this cuvée is impossible since production only started again at the estate in 1952! The fraudster apparently thought of everything, except this essential information.
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Sources:
" Le Grand Entretien : Aubert de Villaine, Domaine de la Romanée- Conti " , La Cité du Vin - 2018
" Le grand cru de la Romanée-Conti, le nectar des rois d'antan (et des fortunés d'aujourd'hui)" , Nicolas de Rabaudy ; Slate - March 2021
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