Organic farming is big, and the demand for organic Champagne is on the rise. Find out how internationally renowned wine-growing region Champagne has been won over by organic growing.
The Champagne region is 35,000 hectares of vines that make the world’s most famous sparkling wine. Even though the number of organic growers in the region is still quite small, there seems to have been a wake-up call not only among independent producers, but also with the major houses or groups. As a matter of fact, even if only less than 5% of vineyards are used for organic farming, between 2012 and 2017 alone, 37% of the Champagne estate were awarded organic certification.
The means are in place to encourage Champagne growers to switch to organic. 20 million euros have been invested in the creation of a research centre looking at sustainable farming in Champagne What’s more, university programmes specialising in soil and life science and have also been set up with the aim of boosting innovation, knowledge sharing, and also organic farming techniques. In 2014, the specifications were put in place in Champagne to ensure controls for sustainable wine growing. Using these specifications, the aim is to achieve full conversion of Champagne between now and 2030.
Compared to other varieties of wine in France, Champagne has shown some delay in moving over to organic growing. If fewer than 5% of growers are organic, then biodynamic growing is even more unusual, since it represents less than 1% of the wine produced. With the arrival of a new generation to head up the great champagne estates, it has been possible to note a move towards greater awareness. Young growers are first and foremost aware of environmental issues, and more and more focused on the importance of sustainable farming when it comes to guaranteeing a prosperous future of great quality.
If Champagne is the French wine region where the share of estates using organic growing methods is the lowest, then it is because some challenges apply more here than for any other other French variety of vine.
Champagne is everywhere! Over the years, this precious drink has been able to carve itself a position that gives it pride of place on the world’s greatest tables, at the most coveted evenings, and the most glamorous events. Champagne has a reputation to defend, since its product is synonymous with luxury and when we say "luxury", we mean impeccable quality! A reputation needs to be maintained and Champagne connoisseurs are most discerning. For the large groups, among others, a switch to organic growing needs to be done slowly, starting with just a few plots. The risk for the big names of Champagne when it comes to disappointing is enormous, although they all acknowledge the increasing need to switch to organic
The semi-continental, damp climate means that the vine is very sensitive to disease as well as to the development of fungi. In difficult years, a move to organic may bring about a huge drop in yield. Even in more favourable years, the yield for organic plots is already 20% lower than for conventional growing. A year that is too rainy or too wet, could be fatal to an estate. Although there are natural solutions for treating vines against disease, such as "lime and Bordeaux"; a brilliant mix of sulphur, salt and copper, this is absolutely ineffective after 20 mm of rain. After anything over 20 mm of rain, then whole treatment needs to be reapplied.
The climate situation is different for certain vineyards in the South of the country. The conditions faced by champagne makers explain - among other things - why they have been slower to make the final leap into organic compared to their associates in the south. The warmth, sun and wind are some of the factors that play an important part in providing vines with natural protection against disease.
Climate change, which has been increasingly felt, has also boosted the switch to organic in Champagne. In fact general warming as a result of climate change has made it easier for wine growers to abandon the use of chemicals. Since 2020 was a particularly mild year in terms of climate, several growers decided to take the plunge. The fact remains that organic winegrowers need to make frequent checks of the plots of land and react promptly in certain situations.
First of all, the ban on chemicals on these plots of land requires a considerable amount of manual and mechanical work. This involves the wine grower not only investing in machines, but also in labour. In fact, cutting and pruning need to be carried out meticulously to protect the plant as well as to boost exposure to the sun to avoid any rotting.
There is also a minimum time period of
Organic farming is on trend and demand shows no sign of settling down. A new generation of more aware consumers, who are also more sensitive to sustainable practices has taken up a larger share of the marketplace. It is definitely in the interests of Champagne producers to adapt to this demand, which cannot be ignored.
In terms of taste, switching over to organic wine growing is consistent with achieving superior quality products. Organic Champagne is fruitier, purer, more potent, more vibrant and it even has more flavour! In spite of the challenges and difficulties that winegrowers may have to deal with once they decide to make the switch to organic, the results of the finished product are excellent proof of how organic equals quality.
Important! Organic growing is limited to viticulture. What that means is all the work on the plots of land, through to the harvest. In fact, the use of chemicals is permitted during vinification. A vintage might be labelled organic, but there may be some chemicals used in the winery. The processes of actual vinification are often dependent on the approach of the enologist. Enologists normally limit their use of chemicals to a minimum when preparing their vintages.
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